Author Topic: Brakes pulling to right  (Read 73 times)

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Offline skamme

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Brakes pulling to right
« on: March 24, 2019, 04:46:56 PM »
Recently got a 93 Feroza 2. Have been going right through it. Brakes felt ok to begin with, but front calipers where handing on and getting hot. Brakes had probably never had fluid changed. MC took a set of seals, front calipers were pretty much seized. They cleanup up ok and took a set of rubbers. Rear slaves replaced. Shoes and pads all abount half material.
After all this, it still has a bit of an odd pull to the right/sort of strange brake when stopping hard. Car pulls a bit to the right but twists right and back right locks up first every time. ITs not too bad under general braking, but when you need to stop its not that flash, expecially for a new drivers car!!
All adjusted up well and suspension seems ok, ball joints etc dont appear to be worn, and allignment is good. drives straight and has new tyres. Wondering if it could be the P and B (proportioning and Balance) valve but not much infor available on them and not available as a replacement unit here is australia that I can find. Local brake place doesnt think the P and B valve could make this happen. Only the drivers side (RH) front brake goes through the P and B valve, and the rear line. I might pull it out and clean it, but if its like the other brake components it might be full of corrosion. Anyone with experience?? Cheers.

Offline Rusty

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Re: Brakes pulling to right
« Reply #1 on: April 08, 2019, 03:20:14 AM »
Hi skamme,
I have similar problem. I have a turbo diesel Rocky F75 with the ventilated front discs.  I’ve replaced everything except re-sealing the front calipers.  The brakes are better than they were, but still not great.  On hardish braking she pulls a bit one way then the other and the rears only get warm after repeated use.  I fitted softer compound shoes, but hasn’t made a big difference, even the handbrake hardly works, all adjusted as per the manual too. The only thing I found with the proporting valve was trouble bleeding through it.  I found an article somewhere from google, there was a trick to get it to open for bleeding as I had heaps of air in it due to adding steel braided lines (front and rear).
I’m planning to bleed the system again soon and down the track may fit the caliper kit I already have and see if that helps.
I think the brakes are a bit inadequate for the car though, especially when towing. My preference would be bigger calipers and rotors if anyone knows an easy conversion, pretty sure there isn’t one though.

I found that pads can make a huge difference, I tried the Bendix 4wd pads - expensive and really bad. Brake specialist recommended EBC and the initial bite and feel is much better, but it took a long time for the brake squeal to disappear!

What area in Aus are you? I’m in Brisbane.
Rusty