Author Topic: Panhard Rod  (Read 747 times)

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Offline Rusty

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Panhard Rod
« on: March 27, 2018, 09:23:00 AM »
has anyone found that the stock panhard rod on a Rocky F75 is a bit too short when raising front leaffs by 50mm or more? As my old springs were stuffed, the front came up about 90mm when I fitted my +50 springs, I had to pull the rear passenger side shackle mounting poit over about 30mm to get the bolts in and the only thing restricting this movement was the panhard rod.
I didnt remove it until after fitting the springs and now both springs sit nicely under the chassis rails, so now I think Zi need to either lengthen my old panhard rod or find an extendable one but no luck so far.
Also I found that the front driveshaft has pulled out (lengthened by about 30mm and May need a space at one end to keep the spline engagement within limits...havent checked that yet though.
Anyone had similar experience? anne had a panhard rod made or lengthened?
thanks Rusty

Offline Gonzo_Descente

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Re: Panhard Rod
« Reply #1 on: March 27, 2018, 10:11:06 PM »
while I have not made any such mods, it is, IMHO, supremely important to make any such ancillary mods necessary to keep the driveline components in their original relationship.

The panhard rod, if wrong length, will severely effect your rear geometry and limit your off-road ability to maintain steering and stability.

any component delivering torque is likely to fail at the worst possible moment, especially if a spline is wrongly exposed.

I hope you correct these and enjoy years of playtime.

Offline Rusty

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Re: Panhard Rod
« Reply #2 on: March 31, 2018, 05:57:44 AM »
Thanks Gonzo, I agree entirely.  I removed the panhard from the front and drove around a carpark fot 20minutes doing figure 8s, the springs settled in and centered in alignment with the chassis rails. so i measured up the panhard hole centers and had my rod lengthened by 15mm, it went straight back on and I had a front alignment done.  The only possible adjustment on this model is toe, but the tech couldnt get the toe correct AND have the steering box centered so that from straight there are the same number of turns to left full lock as right full lock, (it was half a turn out). When I took it back, they centered the steering box, then removed the pitman arm trying to get the wheels pointed straight but one wheel was always off by a degree or so. I think it would be possible to get right, but they say not without replacing the draglink rod with an adjustable one so that the toe can be adjusted separately on each front wheel.  So now I will look into that, however I woild have thought that if the “turnbuckle” style rod currently there was removed and screwed slightly onto one tierod first, this would give the same benefit, although more trial and error to get right.
I will be removing the front driveshaft very soon as I need to replace the seal into the transfer case anyway, this will allow me to check the engagaement length of the splines.  Not sure what the minimum would be but Im guesssing I will have 75 to 100mm in there at the moment.