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4cm Bodylift with the Daihatsu Feroza

Written by Haasa

Friday, 25 November 2005

Courtesty of: http://www.uahhh.org/technik/haasa/bl_feroza/main.htm (Translated by: http://babelfish.altavista.com)

4cm Bodylift with the Daihatsu Feroza are ideal. One can raise even without rougher problems the body 5 or 6cm, however then some modifications must be made in the engine compartment: , vacuum timing controls and gasoline filters coolly again downward set set, etc. downward. In addition we the additional raise the bumpers to the problem. OK ONE - that would not be all really large Hexerei... however because of 1-2cm did not want I this work simply to do itself.

The reason for the Bodylift with the Feroza is simple - and not differently as with other vehicles:
- 31er tires touch otherwise when hitting at the wheel housing
- the body with the Feroza sits relatively deeply (above all that swelling inheritance realm).

With the Bodylift with a Suzuki the work is compared "klax", since one does not have to bore screws. One needs the only following material:
- 6 pieces of screws M10x140 (8.8)
- 2 pieces of screws M10x120 (8.8)
- (2 pieces of screws with feinzoelligem thread must be reused)
- 10 Bodyliftbloecke 4cm highly and approx. 6-8cm in the diameter
- rubber for the document (between body and Bodyliftblock)

For the additional raise the bumpers:
- 2 pieces of form pipes 35x35, approx.. 15 long
- 4 pieces of M8x80
- 8 pieces of M10x30

Tool:
- 14er and 17er ratchet and 14er/17er fork/ring spanner
- angle sander (Flex)
- drill press (inclusive 10er and 12er drill)

Starting point: a derusted body, front and rear bumper dismantled, carpet removes. Then the screws which are rausgeschraubt the body at the framework to hold on a page and the body become (using a wood relay o.ae.) on this side around max. 5cm raised. Afterwards one makes the second side similar to first. (... max 5cm the body take attention off on all hoses in the engine compartment - otherwise it becomes "too scarcely")
The position of the screws:
- NR. 1: "short" screw sits completely in front underneath the headlight
- NR. 2: "be enough" for screw in the floor space in front
- NR. 3: "be enough" for screw beside the seat
- NR. 4: "be enough" for screw in the baggage compartment floor, directly before the rear seats
- NR. 5: "short" staybolt (from above not visibly) under the taillights

Body is around 5cm raised... one must no line or the like solve if one only 5cm raises!

in the back a staybolt must be removed the structure of a "Siletblocks" (staybolt NR. 5).
(Rausdrehen of the staybolts by means of nut)

in front out a 10er hole must be made - > for the screw M10x120 + nut/mother + for circlip from the fine-metric thread.

The center (hole 2.3 and 4) is very simple. Screw on, underlaid, completely (M10x140)

For the rear attachment one needs now a screw M10x100 with a fine thread.... which one from one of the three middle original screws to use can - fits exactly!

thus working more joy prepared... one installs equivalent times the 31er tire...

and in such a way the whole looks then around 4cm more highly with 31er tyre out...

The front bumper must be eingeflext a little. Besides one new hole each at the mounting plate and at the bumper must be bored.

if necessary the bumper also a bischen should be diagonally cut

rear bumper: by means of form pipe (35x35) the rear bumper must be set upward. The two form pipes can be used however only outside. In addition must also at the rear bumper a small hit a corner to be rausgeflext (see picture).

The internal attachments must be unfortunately set with the M8x80 upward (3 nuts/mothers for each screw as measuring rods - see second picture)

M8x80er screw... completely installed rear bumper.

Problem of 1:
On 6.5J-Felgen a 31x10.5-Reifen sees very modestly out. On the 8J-Felge (ET -20) it works very powerfully, however approx. 5cm manages, why flared wings become necessary - and schaun however fully shits out.

Problem of 2:
The rear bumper is not pott ugly (however ugly), but useless for a Offroad vehicle. This will have to yield surely in next time a Custom Bumper.

But otherwise I am very content.

before - afterwards

Last Updated ( Monday, 28 November 2005 )

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Lifting the body has less effect on centre of gravity than fitting springs that raise the height. With a body lift you are lifting the body only from the chassis, engine, gearbox axles etc. With a suspension lift you are in effect lifting the body, engine, chassis gearbox etc from above the axles.

Posted by phil towle, on 03/05/2008 at 16:29

Surely lifting the body has no effect on the prop shaft as the transfer box is mounted off the chassis.

Posted by phil towle, on 03/05/2008 at 12:39

You say you still got full travel. Well yes your wheel will still go up into the wheel arch and probable scrub out but articulation will suffer (very little drop) because the torsion bars wound up. And for the tail shaft coming out, it's a body lift!! And the whole running gear i.e. motor, gearbox, tranfer case and suspension is fitted to the chassis. Not a thing will change actually. I.e. drive shaft coming out..

Posted by Skitles, on 09/30/2006 at 17:10

Hi Ross,

I also want to raise my feroza F300 SE (1994), who did you buy your springs/shocks/torsion bars from to complete your lift? Also did you have to do any other modifications to prevent damage (such as to the front end parts)?

thanx for your help
Jah

Posted by Jahsen, on 06/11/2006 at 14:38

would you please tell us also what are the other modifications we have to do before the bodylift? Very good job there my friends

Posted by achilleas, on 03/29/2006 at 20:05

Nice job, heaps of work. I have 31 inch tyres on my Feroza and all I did was put new springs shocks and torsion bars straight on.

Took about 4 hours in total and gives me full travel and steering - along with far better ride height and suspension.

The reason I did it this way was to try and keep the roll centre as low as possible as I do serious off roading and raising the Centre of Gravity can be a danger.

Thing you might have overlooked is the rear tailshaft will now be much further out of the transfer case because of the lift. On really big drops the tailshaft can come out of the transfer case. You need to get/make a tailshaft spacer to get the tailshaft back in its correct position.

A friend has a damaged transfer case to prove the point....

Posted by Ross mcLean, on 01/31/2006 at 15:58

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changed the interiors including 2 tone seat cover, carpetting

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